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The Time is Always Right to Do What is Right

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I read earlier this week that 4 of the 5 counties in the US with the highest death rates per capita due to Covid-19 are in Georgia. Terrell, Early, Randolph, and Hancock – all rural counties with an African American majority. I grew up in South Georgia.


I attended all-white private schools that were founded during the court-ordered desegregation. While in junior high, my sister found a white KKK robe in the hall closet while playing at a schoolmate’s house. (The father was a lawyer, in county politics, and from a “good family.”) I know a family that was able to dissuade a young boy from clinging to his baby blanket because he was told a black person had touched it. (We all know that wasn’t the word that was used.) I remember a story I heard as a child that a colleague and fellow doctor of a family friend, an ob-gyn would pinch the scrotums of infant black boys at birth to hopefully render them infertile. The N-word in this instance that is the atrocity is that this was “normal” for many white Southerners.

Black Belt

Home to peanuts, peaches, and pecans, growing up in the Deep South was for me, somewhat idyllic. Yet even as a young teen, I could not ignore the economic disparity between the classes and races. The county itself was predominantly black, with whites in the minority. Where I grew up is part of the Black Belt, a crescent-shaped band that extends through the Deep South, about 300 miles, making its way from southwest Tennessee to east-central Mississippi and then east through Alabama and Georgia. The term Black Belt is two-fold, referring to a rich swath of soil that arches through the South, as well as the population, a result of the descendants of the enslaved Africans who once toiled on the plantations. The poverty level has been, for as long as I can remember, even as a child, quite significant.

This imbalance of money and power is and has been for a long time a simmering pot seemingly ready to boil over. Once, I remember being in the car driving through town and my friend’s mom reaching over to lock the door. The road wasn’t dangerous; it was simply a predominantly black neighborhood. A young man walking on the sidewalk, hearing the click of the lock, became outraged and yelled at the car, “I don’t want nothing in your damn car.” It shook me. I remember feeling embarrassed and conflicted.

Southern Foodways

The South is a complicated place, especially when it comes to race and Southern food is a complicated cuisine. Southern foodways are integral to the American culinary tradition. Southern cooking is seen as seen one of the true American cuisines, a cookery that can simmer alongside the elevated and exalted cuisine of France, the cast iron skillet toe-to-toe against a French black steel sauté pan. Southern cooking is often compared to Italian food, humble, but fresh, flavorful, and delicious.

It has always drawn upon the conflux of cultures that once both conspired and collided to create the South we know today— Native American, European, and African. However, the questions of ownership of Southern cooking are one of the most provocative points in our ongoing struggles over race. The lines of ownership of Southern food aren’t clearly marked on a map. There is a rich narrative that lies beneath, a tangled and compelling web of race, politics, and social history that are served up alongside our beloved biscuits and gravy.

Cumming, Georgia

One of my dearest friends in college was Kenneth King, a gay man that later died of AIDS. He used to joke in his baritone voice, “I’m not black; I’m Jamaican.” It was humorous, but he knew his standing in society was “less than’ as a gay, black American male. We marched together in Cumming, Georgia in 1987. That cold day over 20K protestors marched including Coretta Scott King, John Lewis, Hosea Williams, Jesse Jackson, and Andrew Young. It was the largest Civil Rights march in decades. Confederate flags waving, we had bricks and bottles thrown at us, ugly slurs hurled at us, and we were spat upon. Frankly, I was fearful of the National Guard because I knew many of the soldiers were likely not on the side of the protestors.

Black Mortality Rate

The postcard above has been a fixture on my fridge for years. It is always time to do the right thing. The Coronavirus pandemic has cast a harsh light, further revealing the inequity in our nation. The mortality rate for black Americans is more than double that of any other race in the country, according to figures gathered by APM Research Lab. Emotions are heightened. People are scared. There is a great political divide and more than anything, people are sick and tired of being sick and tired. Black lives matter.

Young people are once again marching in the streets. As I watch the protests on the news I remember how I felt those thirty-plus years ago – that change must happen, that the power imbalance must end.

I’ve long said the South does not have a monopoly on racism. It is clear that our entire country has a problem with racism. It is not enough to be against racism; we must be anti-racist. The time is always right to do what is right. I end by sharing with you a list of culinary-minded resources and reads. If you know of more, please put them in the comments.

I don’t know what it feels like to be a person of color in the Deep South. All I know is that I have long felt I need to do what I need to do to bridge that gap, make that wrong right, and unlock the barriers that I can. I have tried to live my life trying to lift up people of color and less fortunate and will continue to do so and try harder, with added urgency. Everyone is welcome at my table. The time is always right to do what is right.

Bon Appetit, Y’all 

Virginia Willis

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Virginia Willis

Georgia-born French-trained Chef Virginia Willis’ biography includes making chocolate chip cookies with Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, foraging for berries in the Alaskan wilderness, harvesting capers in the shadow of a smoldering volcano in Sicily, and hunting for truffles in France. She is talent and chef-instructor for the digital streaming platform Food Network Kitchen. Her segments feature authentic and innovative Southern cooking. She was the celebrity chef at the Mansion at Churchill Downs for the 143rd running of the Kentucky Derby. Virginia has spoken at SXSW, cooked for the James Beard Foundation, and beguiled celebrities such as Bill Clinton, Morgan Freeman, and Jane Fonda with her cooking — but it all started in her grandmother’s country kitchen. Recently, her work has been inspired by her weight loss success story, Virginia has lost 65# and kept it off for over 2 1/2 years! “If a French-trained, Southern chef can do it, you can, too.” She is the author of Fresh Start; Secrets of the Southern Table; Lighten Up, Y’all; Bon Appétit, Y’all; Basic to Brilliant, Y’all; Okra; and Grits. Lighten Up, Y’all won a James Beard Foundation Award of Excellence in the Focus on Health Category. Lighten Up, Y’all as well as her first cookbook, Bon Appétit, Y’all, were finalists in the Best American Cookbook for the International Association of Cookbook Awards and were also named by the Georgia Center of the Book as “Books Georgians Should Read.” She is the former TV kitchen director for Martha Stewart Living, Bobby Flay, and Nathalie Dupree; has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants; and traveled the world producing food stories – from making cheese in California to escargot farming in France. She has appeared on Food Network’s Chopped, CBS This Morning, Fox Family and Friends, Martha Stewart Living, and as a judge on Throwdown with Bobby Flay. She’s been featured in the New York Times, the Washington Post, People Magazine, Eater, and Food52 and has contributed to Eating Well, GRLSQUASH, Culture, Garden & Gun, and Bon Appétit, and more. The Chicago Tribune praised her as one of “Seven Food Writers You Need to Know.” Her legion of fans loves her down-to-earth attitude, approachable spirit, and traveling exploits. Her culinary consulting company, Virginia Willis Culinary Enterprises, Inc specializes in content creation, recipe development, culinary editorial and production services, cookbook writing, media training, spokesperson and brand representation, and public speaking. Virginia is on the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Blue Ribbon Task Force, the Atlanta Community Food Bank Advisory Board, as well as the Community Farmers Market Advisory Board. She is a food and hunger advocate for No Kid Hungry and a premier member of the No Kid Hungry Atlanta Society. She a member of The James Beard Foundation, Chef’s Collaborative, Georgia Organics, and Southern Foodways Alliance.

This Post Has 5 Comments

  1. Carol Lawrence

    Stunningly written!!! Thank you, Virginia❣️❣️❣️

  2. I grew up in Atlanta, but was fortunate that my public high school was desegregated. My experience was much like that of Remember the Titans though we did not have Denzel as a football coach. My work in music brought me a natural interaction that seemed easy and right. Later, after a friend was pelted with rocks in a small march in Cumming, I joined the march you cite of 20K. I made to downtown for the speeches, but because the march ran late, I had to leave to make it back to the Cathedral for a wedding I was scheduled to officiate. It meant leaving the safety of the crowd and walking back by my damn self to my car, all the while sporting my clergy collar. I was fearful as the trucks with Stars and Bars drove past, throwing things and calling me a “lover”, which is true, but not as intended. That feeling of fear was new to me, and taught me about what some of my friends dealt with every day. Race has been my issue to push around here in Atlanta, in Texas as I served there, and now I am moving to the Georgia coast, to one Glynn County. Lord have mercy.
    Love what yoy wrote and it reminds me of the blessing and curse of being a Southerner. I appreciate you teaching me to be more appreciative of our food traditions. As I burrow into Gullah Geechee traditions in my new home, I am a willing learner and student.

  3. Danna

    Thank you, Virginia. I am and was employed at the GA Dept. of Ed. in School Nutrition when you spoke to us a few years ago. This post is so moving, so accurate in so many ways. I’m white. I’m outraged to embarrassed and everything in between about the injustices in our “United” States that continues and seemingly has no end for black, brown, gay, and abused women and children just because someone thinks/believes they are “less than.”

  4. Anonymous

    Beautifully written truths. We have to acknowledge the wrongs of the past and the present to change them for the future.

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